How to clean your makeup brushes, according to Taylor Swift and Rihanna's makeup artist

Aug 06, 2023

By Lauren Sanchez

Makeup artist and entrepreneur Lisa Eldridge first had an “inspirational brush” with cosmetics at six years old, sparking a lifelong love for makeup. The discovery of her mother’s vintage collection at her grandmother’s house set the beauty wheels in motion. “Mary Quant crayons, Coty lipsticks, Elizabeth Arden eyeshadows—I was captivated!” Eldridge recalls. “I wasn’t really interested in putting any of it on my own face, instead, I used vintage makeup to supplement my crayons. I loved that you could get all these different textures and effects on paper.” With a natural panache for colors and subtle technique, it’s no wonder the maven of pretty palettes and velvety lips (Eldridge eventually launched her namesake brand in 2018) has found her way into many a cosmetic bag—this writer included.

The foundation was set and soon thereafter Eldridge convinced her school teachers that makeup, not math was her true passion after receiving a book about theatrical makeup. “I read it cover to cover and thought, ‘Wow, this is amazing, it encapsulates everything I love and you can do this as a career!’” Eldridge has continued to seek treasures in the form of retro lipsticks, including a Cartier lipstick holder belonging to Audrey Hepburn. Having seen firsthand the transformation of beauty tools—her own makeup collection spans over 1000 years–Eldridge shared her findings in a New York Times bestseller. Titled The Face Paint: The Story of Makeup, it encapsulates the historical origins of makeup throughout the ages.

Fast forward to five years ago, and Eldridge officially entered the cosmetics industry with her very own beauty line. Today, the luxury makeup artist continuously shares her how-tos on her YouTube channel with over 2 million subscribers. On the topic of brushes, it was Eldridge’s tenure as creative director at Shiseido that inspired her own handheld tools. Learning everything there is to know about the meticulous art of brushes was just the beginning. Having worked with Gucci, Prada, Balmain, Jil Sander, and more, Eldridge continuously paints her way across runways and the like with her trademark formulas and natural style. Keeping a set of fresh tools at the ready is a must for application for a night out on the town or night in with your favorite skin-care products.

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Here to share her wisdom, Eldridge shares her secrets to keeping makeup brushes fresh, along with plenty of tips and tricks for easy maintenance.

Vogue: I read you love collecting vintage makeup! Are there any particular upgrades you’ve noticed when it comes to brushes?

Lisa Eldridge: I’ve been collecting vintage makeup for 30 years (my collection goes back over 1000 years) and one thing I can say for sure is that makeup brushes have improved beyond belief… particularly over the past 30 years. Not only are most of today’s brushes cruelty-free, the science, technology, and high-quality designs are what make the professional makeup application we all expect today, so easy to achieve. The global rise of Japanese brands like Shu Uemura in the early ’90s with their handcrafted, calligraphy-grade professional brushes, certainly lead the way.

What’s your most treasured piece of vintage makeup?

Over the years, I have collected thousands and thousands of pieces, so that’s a very difficult question. Each has a story to tell and I treasure every single piece—from tatty and clearly well-worn faux lashes from the 1930s to Audrey Hepburn’s very own monogrammed and bejeweled lipstick holder.

Having launched your own brand back in 2018, what is important for you personally when creating your own Lisa Eldridge brushes?

My tenure as a creative director at Shiseido and all the time I spent in Japan had a very big impact on me. I was determined to work with the very best brush artisans to craft the highest quality brushes possible—it was a labor of love! I also wanted them to be vegan but to behave like animal hair so finding the right blend of materials was key. I was very fussy about their production… for example, to preserve their softness the hairs are never cut, instead, they are carefully positioned using a patented process that places the hairs in a ‘mold’ to sculpt the perfect makeup tool. I wanted to include beautiful details too, the handle is made from responsibly sourced Japanese cherry blossom wood harvested in Kumano, the historical production center of calligraphy brushes.

Which brushes of yours would you recommend for a beginner to start with?

My No.7 Seamless Blend Brush would be a great place for a beginner to start as it has so many uses… I call it my multi-functioning little powerhouse. It’s ideal for applying foundation and highlighter to targeted areas of the face. It’s the perfect brush to use with my signature patchwork skin technique, but can also be used for concealing around the eyes, applying eye primer, and laying down a base layer of color across the lids.

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When it comes to your own brush collection, how do you find the perfect one? What do you look for?

Personally, I have a real mixture of brushes… many I’ve had for twenty years, some even more! I really look after them. One of my most used brushes is a fine-tip, precise brush that I pick up from an art supply store in London, which I use for pinpoint concealing. Some of my oldest brushes have developed unusual shapes as they have almost morphed into the shape of my hand and touch—when I created my own brushes I took these shapes as inspiration.

How often should I wash and clean my makeup brushes?

Very dirty brushes become stiff, stubby, and greasy and don’t apply makeup smoothly and without streaks. So if you want a great result, clean brushes are essential. In a professional context, you must clean your brushes after every single client, but for personal use, I’d say once a week is fine (depending on how heavily you use them). I’m personally not a fan of cleaning with alcohol as nothing can compare to a good wash in terms of cleanliness and keeping your brushes soft and beautifully supple. After washing and guiding them back into shape, leave them to dry overnight and only use them once they are completely dry.

What products do I use to wash & clean my makeup brushes?

I usually use washing-up liquid for stubborn or long-wearing formulas and gentle baby shampoos for less stubborn products. I love using the Sigma Spa Brush glove. It’s not essential, but my team and I find it really useful after editorial jobs and fashion shows when there are so many brushes to wash. It has lots of ridges and bumps that really help to get the brushes clean and the thumb and index finger bit allows you to comb and wring them out.

Do you have any particular technique you have when cleaning them?

Angling the hairs downwards, wet them in warm water under the tap, add a drop cleanser, and then gently swirl and squeeze the brush in the palm of your hand (or the Sigma glove) until all traces of makeup have been removed. Good rinsing is so important but be sure to point them facing downwards so that no water can enter the ferrule (the metal bit at the end of the bristles).

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What tips and tricks do you recommend for maintaining a ready-to-use brush?

After rinsing they must be gently teased back into the perfect shape. Then arrange them on a towel or cloth along the edge of a table so the bristle heads are hanging over the edge. This will allow for air to circulate so that they will dry evenly.

When is the right time to buy new makeup brushes?

Good quality brushes that are well looked after should last years, but if you find that your brushes are shedding and no longer retaining their shape, then it might be time to invest in some great new ones.

This article first appeared on www.vogue.co.uk

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